What happens when the
lights go dark? In Las Vegas, several sets of lights go out every decade. In fact, one
grand set of lights that lit up the Riviera just went out this year. Only a
couple of months ago, you could still see the neon sign, ghostly dark with
shadows and reflections from the lights of the other casinos nearby. Despite
the command to pull the switch, bringing darkness, the Neon Museum is waiting
nearby to offer a second chapter for those that faced the last curtain call.
The glitz and glamour of the Las Vegas strip is always tinged with a sense of déjà vu: As if you’ve seen
the extravagance before, perhaps just around the previous corner, or in an old
movie from decades ago. The glitter and lights have provided a backdrop of
resplendent euphoria. Of course, this effect is intentional, to make you feel
prosperous, beautiful, uninhibited, and timeless. But just as pockets
empty and beauty fades with age, so too casinos fade in popularity and age
tarnishes the shine of the flashing lights.
As a reminder of all
that glitters is far from gold, the Neon Museum strives to preserve the essence
of Las Vegas, from its early days to the present. With each casino that is shut
down, the Museum is at the ready, hoping to secure a piece of the sign for
their "boneyard."
Over the years they have
collected many remnants of neon artistry. Not many are in working order, but
each comes with stories as big as the current towers of light still shining on
the strip, just up the street. That was the first thing that caught my
attention during our visit. Standing in the dark, waiting for the tour to
start, and seeing the glow on the horizon from the current casinos
that have risen up to take the place of the past signs we were about to
see. A reflection of humanity and life itself that was too uncomfortable
to speak out loud. Most waited in respectful silence, as if we were about to
enter a cemetery.
Visitors are encouraged
to purchase tickets well in advance as tours sell out quickly. But the tour
choice is part of the experience. Tours can be taken during the day or during
the night. As a Neon Museum, I figured the neon signs viewed at night would
make for the best experience. In hindsight, I now realize either tour would
have distinct advantages. While the night tour provides an atmospheric
experience of echoes and shadows, the daytime tours would provide an
artistic experience of mid-century modern marvels. Many of the signs on
display are from the very era of Betty Willis’ famous “Welcome to Fabulous Las
Vegas” sign that has become a timeless icon of this city: impressive in either
the light of day or light of night.
The endeavor that
evolved from a Neon Boneyard into a Neon Museum began very small and has grown
significantly over a brief number of years. Still, the effort, talent, and
resources necessary to bring darkened neon signage back to its glowing glory
does not come easy. Each sign is unique in construct, and only shines again
after a lengthy labor of love. This slow and costly process means their
collection of broken signs vastly outnumbers their collection of brilliantly
resurrected signs.
During the night tour,
visitors are guided through a maze of neon art. Sizes, colors, shapes, textures,
and messages are as varied as the current array of signs seen on the 21st
century strip. But time is always a variable, as evidenced by the patches of
rust alongside the brilliant residue of paint and glass. Since Las Vegas is
only a little over 100 years old, their earliest signs only go back to the
1930s and 40s. Not only do visitors experience the variance of light and color,
but design and construction changes enhance the stories told by the
guide.
Celebrities, gangsters,
and early restaurateurs provide the history, but the contours and shapes
provide the visual record of 20th century sign making. As only a few of the
signs have been restored to fully functional operation, the museum has chosen
to light the signs and paths with colorful spotlights that create depth and
atmosphere. The darkened shadows with hints of light and color truly echo a
time past. Despite the name change from "boneyard" to
"museum" there was a sense of cultural death, and many locals still
refer to this place as the “boneyard.” Each decade of decadence has put its mark on this city in the form of massive light structures, meant to lure
visitors with the promise of riches. But the riches are ethereal, rarely
realized, and often out of reach.
And yet, the lure is
still alive. New signs replaced the old, and today’s lights are vastly bigger
and brighter. As we walked along in the dark desert air, names of legendary casinos
were spoken once again and visually represented by a small remnant of their
neon luster: The Golden Nugget, The Silver Slipper, The Stardust, The Sahara,
and an older version of Caesars Palace. Note the lack of an apostrophe. The
guide reminded everyone that Caesars Palace is named in such a way as to
declare that all visitors are wealthy Caesars and this is their Palace.
Each new decade strives
to make the impact larger and more breathtaking than the previous, to lure more
visitors, with even greater promises. At the Neon Museum, the echoes of past
decadence are felt poignantly with each turn of the path. As a result, the
beauty in this colorfully lit visage reminds us of the uniqueness of Las Vegas.
Everyone comes to Las Vegas for the experience, regardless of what we win or
lose here. It is a special place unlike any other, and purely an American mirage
built out of the desert.
P.S. The museum is currently raising funds to restore its newest acquisition, The Desert Rose. They have one week left to reach their ambitious goal! Please consider donating to this groovy cause!
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